My Sanke Eyes Method

This is a variant based upon the idea that I could save some time from not having to take the dash apart. I am not sure if I did that, but at least I have another neat switch in my cockpit. I decided to place a switch to control the pop-up relay. I cut the power wire and placed a new wire to each end and then ran those into the cockpit. I connected the wires to a toggle switch that I mounted in the center console near the active areo switch. The way it works is: if you turn on your lights or use the manual pop-up button with the toggle switch in the on position, the system works as normal. If the toggle switch is in the off position then the lack of power to the relay switch will not activate the relay, thus no pop-up. This variant cost about $10 more than the other way, but it has more control options. Plus you get to spend all the time you like in Radio Shack. I tried to document the procedure on my ’92 1st Gen. Some of the pictures are a bit fuzzy but I think you will get the idea.

supplies Step 1: Gather a few supplies and tools.
20ft of 18 to 22 gauge stranded wire. Note do not use solid wire. It has too much resistance to conduct the power an extra 20ft.
Some ends and ties, a pair of wire strippers, drill, power tester, and for a more solid connection use a soldering iron, and of course no job is complete without electrical tape.
iron Note: The picture above shows two hard learned lessons. One do not use solid wire and Two do not get a momentary switch.
relaypins2 Step two: Take the fuse and relay box apart in your engine compartment. Pull the pop-up relay switch. The second pin on the top left, as the picture is facing, is the power lead. The red arrow is pointing to it. Find the corresponding wire on the bottom side. Please test all pins with a power tester for assurance. As yours may differ!?!
wires Step three: Cut the wire on the bottom and place two electrical conector ends on the wires. Solder them on for a better contact.
carpet Step four: Tape the two 10ft wires together every 12 inches or so. Remove the carpet wall, then run your wire from the center console down the left side towards the fire wall.
hole/td> Step five: Run it through the firewall from the hole right above the pedals. I used a small screwdriver to drive the end through. Tip: do this with a cool engine, your knuckles will thank you.
wires2 Step six: run the wire around the engine compartment. Keep them away from hot spots. Tie them down to existing wiring systems with three or four ties. Trim the ends for a snug fit.
 hole2 Step seven: I removed the shift boot and took out the panel with the active areo and cruise control switches. I then drilled a hole for the black toggle switch to go through.
Solder the ends to the switch and then wrap all ends with electrical tape.
switch Then reassemble the whole deal.
centerconsole Alternate Location! I updated the switch to a lighted LED rocker switch.
lights Step eight: enjoy your new snake eyes look.
I just wanted to tell ya that i used your snake eyes method cuz i like the idea of having a switch and it works great. – JM
SnakeEyes3 I prefer the method that simply adds a toggle switch to the existing pop-up line. If I want snake eyes, I simply turn the switch off and turn on my lights. If I want fog lights, just press the button. If I want my lights up: turn the lights off, toggle the switch on, and turn the lights back on. I canNOT have my fog’s on with my parking lights, but -eh- I can have them on with the snake eyes. Also, the switch is flush in the coin tray corner and matches the interior so well people have asked if it’s stock. Gotta love Radio Shack. – Ryan